Obregon Yaquis

The bus trip from Los Mochis up to Ciudad Obregon is one of the nicer ones.  There are mountains on either side of the road as you come up through a gorgeous agricultural plain.  The bus itself was also very pleasant with upbeat movies playing for the first time*.


Just before the Sinaloa/Sonora border. Gorgeous, gorgeous countryside. Saw lots of rancheros ambling along on horseback.

The bus to Obregon started with the second half of The Lone Ranger (Johnny Depp version) dubbed into Spanish.  I have no idea what was going on, but I saw a truly fun train-chase sequence.  Then we moved onto a version of Snow White, that was also a lot of fun.


The other side of the bus – broad agricultural plains across to the Sierra Madres.

I struggled with homesickness for a lot of this bus ride – probably a side effect of my first hugs for a very long time. You forget how good hugs are when you’re in a hug drought, but that really brought it home to me.

I hauled myself out to see the Yaquis play that evening.  Had a Sonoran style hotdog, which was pretty good.  And later I had a cup of elotes which I really enjoyed.


Sonoran hotdog. Huge pile of stewed peppers/chilles/tomato under the mayonnaise and on top of the dog.


Elotes! Delicious cup full of corn, mayonnaise, cheese and spices. However, I can barely think about corn without wanting to die, now. This may have been my culprit.

One of the best things about where I was sitting was the huge number of groups of girls who’d come out to the baseball.  There were three separate groups of young women in the spaces near me who’d cheerfully come to the baseball as their girls’ night out.

It was also apparent that Doug Clark is quite the fan favourite, with his every breath cheered quite relentlessly.  That’d be because he hit the winning homerun in the 18th innings of Carribean Series final in 2013, I expect.

The stadium and shop were pretty standard. A bit narrow into the seating area and poorly signed inside the stadium.  I ended up having to get someone to help me, since I was in Section 4 and none of the Sections are sign-posted in any way.  I’m pretty sure I was still in the wrong place, but since no-one else tried to move me along, I was happy to stay there.

My absolute favourite thing about the stadium is the ‘No food/alcohol/drugs’ sign and the ‘no guns or knives’ sign being right next to each other, with the vaguely menacing threat that you’ll be reported to the appropriate authorities.  Proximity makes it seem like the appropriate authorities are the same for unauthorised food and unauthorised firearms.  Tee hee!


Second half of the game was pretty flat, even with banda and dancing girls, though that may well have been me, as I then spent Thursday morning throwing up and the next two days sleeping.  I was far too sick on Thursday to get to the game on Thursday night.

I wasn’t sure about whether or not I was going to Navojoa on Friday night, but was still struggling to maintain a consistent temperature on Friday night, so opted for staying close to the hotel instead.  I headed out to the horse-fair right next to the stadium and watched dancing horses for a couple of hours, but needed to be horizontal, warm and asleep before the fairground even got underway. (Note, I went home at 10.30pm)

Felt pretty good again on Saturday, but didn’t have enough time to do much except go for a bit of a wander around the city.


Dr Gortarez’ cute selfie sculpture on the pavement. IMMD.

I liked Obregon a lot.  There are a lot of English schools up there and the city feels like there’s time and money and care going into it.  Then I looked at the climate graph and decided that it’s definitely not for me over summer.  4 months with an average high of 38 degrees. Blech. At least it cools down quite a lot at night, but still… no.

I would definitely go back.  I didn’t get to Cocorit and the Yaqui museum. I didn’t get to see the Yaquis win – though that doesn’t look like it’s a thing that will happen often this year.  And most of all, I no longer have those beautiful, dry mountains popping in and out of view as you wander through the city.  I’ve adored dry mountains where-ever I’ve found them.  That’s going into my list of ideal places to settle.  Which now reads – enough sunshine for corn, enough rain for cows, enough frost for hops, within 20km of the sea, visible dry mountains.

*I suffered through Halle Berry’s The Call on one bus trip. Seriously traumatising stuff! Occasionally, there would be a low murmur as all of the passengers went “Yeurgh” at the same time in response to some particularly grotesque piece of torture porn.  Though the subtitles to the movie did teach me “Ya esta hecho” which has been useful.

Obegon - Obregon sculpture

Former President of Mexico, Sr Alvaro Obregon Salido

Obregon - Moe's pub

Every town needs a Moe’s pub and a Simpson’s reference. Mmmm. Duff Beer.

Obregon - feria de los caballos

All the vaquero music you could ever want. Ever.

Obregon - plaza

Obregon plaza. It really is beautiful here in winter.

obregon - upside down eagle

Yup. Symbolism and stuff.

Obregon - stadium selfie

It’s vaguely possible that I was already sick. (Second innings)


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